A Trip to Halle (Saale), Germany

First, where is Halle?

Halle—usually written as Halle (Saale) to distinguish it from other towns with the same name—is in the German state of Saxony-Anhalt, along the Saale River. It is about 24 miles from Leipzig, and the two cities form one of the region’s major urban and economic centers.

Halle(Saale) Train Station

Halle is more than 1,200 years old, first appearing in written records in 806. Much of its historic center survived the destruction suffered by many German cities during World War II, so the old town retains a great deal of its original character. It is also well connected by rail, including Germany’s high-speed ICE trains.

Esther was traveling to Halle for an international scientific conference, and I went along to explore the city—and, of course, to add a little more adventure to the trip.

Friday, August 28—Getting Started

Susan drove Esther and me to the multimodal transportation center behind the Classic Center in Athens, where we caught the Greyhound bus to the Atlanta airport. This was a new experience for us, but at only $15 per person, we decided it was worth trying.

There were not many passengers, and the ride was comfortable and smooth. The bus arrived at the airport about 45 minutes late, however, and because it only runs once a day, you need to be patient and allow plenty of extra time.

Our Delta flight to Amsterdam was long but uneventful. Our original tickets had us sitting together, but after Esther changed her return flight, our seats were moved. Fortunately, the gate agent found us two seats together—in the very last row of the plane.

Saturday, August 29—Arrival in the Netherlands

We arrived at Schiphol Airport around 10:30 in the morning. As is often the case at Schiphol, it took nearly two hours to get through passport control.

We caught the 181 bus and then walked about eight-tenths of a mile to the Hotel Aalsmeer. After dropping off our bags and freshening up, we grabbed a quick lunch before going to see Esther’s father, Gerard.

Gerard had undergone hip-replacement surgery only ten days earlier, which was why we decided to stay at a hotel this time. We wanted to make him a nice dinner, so we found a couple of New York Times recipes that could all be prepared in the oven. We began with roasted broccoli and potatoes, followed by salmon fillets, corn and cherry tomatoes.

Gerard loved the meal, and there was barely a crumb left. After getting very little sleep on the airplane, we were more than ready for an early bedtime.

Sunday, August 30—Amersfoort and a Family Celebration

After breakfast and a leisurely morning, we traveled to Amersfoort to explore several neighborhoods where we had seen apartments for sale. It was a little rainy, but the visit was both fun and educational—and gave us a better sense of where we might eventually like to have a place in the Netherlands.

We returned to Aalsmeer around 3:30 and visited with Gerard before leaving for a barbecue hosted by Esther’s cousin and his wife as a wedding gift to us. It was a wonderful evening, with delicious food, good company and enough English spoken to keep me involved in the conversations.

Monday, August 31—Nine Hours on the Train

We took the train from the Netherlands to Hannover, Germany, and then transferred to another train for Halle. The trains were delayed by about an hour, so we spent close to nine hours traveling. Although we could get up and walk around occasionally, it was still a very long day of sitting.

When we finally arrived in Halle, we decided to walk the 2.2 kilometers to the Ankerhof Hotel. It was nearly 6:30 when we checked in. The Ankerhof was a pleasant old hotel, and our air-conditioned room was wonderfully cool—exactly what we needed after the long journey.

After freshening up, we set out for dinner at the Alchimistenklause, a restaurant Esther had found. It was about a 40-minute walk, but ten minutes after we started, the rain began. We quickly changed plans and ducked into the cozy Osteria Da Salvatore instead. The Italian food was good, and the wine was even better.

Tuesday, September 1—Discovering Halle

Conference registration began at 11:30. The 40-minute walk to the conference center followed the Saale River and was beautiful. The weather was cool and almost autumn-like, making the walk especially pleasant.

While Esther attended the conference, I spent the day wandering through the streets and getting familiar with Halle. Exploring a new city on foot is one of my favorite ways to discover it, and Halle’s historic buildings and old-town atmosphere made it especially enjoyable.

That evening, we attended a conference dinner at the historic Krug zum Grünen Kranze beer garden beside the Saale River. There were 277 people attending from at least 25 countries, making it a truly international gathering. The traditional German food, beer and conversations were all excellent. Afterward, the cool 40-minute walk back to our hotel was the perfect digestive.

Wednesday, September 2—Ancient Skies and Handel

After walking Esther to the conference for its 8:30 start, I continued to the State Museum of Prehistory. It was a fascinating museum filled with ancient artifacts, although most of the descriptions were in German, and translating everything on my phone became a slow process.

The highlight was seeing the famous Nebra Sky Disc. Dating to around 1600 BCE, the bronze disc is decorated with gold images representing the Sun or full Moon, a crescent Moon and stars, including the Pleiades. It is considered the oldest known realistic representation of the night sky and may have helped ancient people track the seasons and coordinate the lunar and solar calendars.

Seeing the original disc—one of the most important archaeological discoveries in Europe—was well worth the visit.

Nice house on a prominent corner Handell grew up in – his father was a well respected surgeon

I also toured the house where George Frideric Handel was born and grew up. It has been transformed into a beautiful museum containing an impressive collection of musical instruments, many dating to the 1700s. Handel was born in Halle in 1685, and the museum provides a fascinating look at both his life and the development of music during his time.

Buildings in downtown Halle

The conference barbecue was scheduled for that evening, but we decided to skip it and finally try the Alchimistenklause. The restaurant was fully booked, but because we arrived at 6:00, they offered us a table for two hours. The food was very good, and we were glad we had made a second attempt.

Many street cafes on in the central part of the city and neighborhoods.

Thursday, September 3—Esther’s Talk and Leipzig

We arrived at the conference around 10:00. Esther spent the morning putting the final polish on her presentation, which was scheduled for 11:00, and I attended to hear her speak.

Afterward, several conference participants wanted a word with Dr. van der Knaap. Once the scientific discussions were finished, we caught the train to Leipzig, about 35 minutes away.

In Leipzig, we visited a church, toured the Bach Museum and had dinner at a Greek restaurant. It was a full but enjoyable afternoon, and we returned to our hotel shortly after dark, around 9:00.

Friday, September 4—Back to Aalsmeer

Friday was another travel day. We took the tram to the Halle train station and began the long journey back to the Netherlands. We arrived in Aalsmeer around 5:30, with enough time to do some shopping and prepare another dinner for Gerard.

Hops growing like weeds everywhere in the city and sides of the road.

Saturday, September 5—Home Again

On Saturday, Esther remained in the Netherlands while I took an uneventful flight back to the United States. After landing in Atlanta, I caught an Uber home to Athens.

The trip combined family, science, history, food and plenty of walking—not to mention many hours on trains. Halle proved to be a fascinating city, and seeing the Nebra Sky Disc and Handel’s birthplace made the visit especially memorable. Most importantly, I was glad to be there to hear Esther’s presentation and share another European adventure with her.

Tour de Habitat: 35 Miles in the Pouring Rain

Malcolm and I recently took part in the Jackson County Tour de Habitat, a fundraising ride supporting Habitat for Humanity. We completed 35 miles with more than 2,100 feet of elevation changes—and, as if the hills weren’t challenging enough, we rode much of it in pouring rain.

The weather made for a wet, demanding ride, but we kept pedaling through the hills and crossed the finish line soaked, tired, and proud. It was quite an adventure, made even more rewarding because we were riding for such a worthwhile cause.

A Five-Part, One-Month European Adventure

In May and June, Esther and I embarked on what can best be described as a five-part European adventure. The trip combined a pilgrimage walk along Spain’s northern coast, visits with family and friends, time in the Netherlands, sightseeing, and a wedding celebration. Looking back, it was one of the most memorable trips we have ever taken—although by the end we agreed that it may have had a few too many moving parts!

Part One: The Camino del Norte, Spain

Our journey began on May 13 with an overnight flight from Atlanta to Schiphol Airport in Amsterdam. After arriving in the Netherlands, we spent a night at Esther’s father Gerald’s home in Aalsmeer. The next day was devoted to repacking. We condensed everything into two small carry-on bags and two backpacks, knowing that traveling light would be essential for the Camino.

On May 15 we flew to Bilbao, Spain, where we spent the night at Cristina’s family home. Cristina, one of the organizers of our Camino group, grew up in Bilbao and still has family roots there. The following day we transferred our luggage to the hotel system arranged through Santiago Ways, the company handling our accommodations and luggage transfers.

On May 17, our Camino del Norte officially began. Along with a group of friends from Athens, Georgia, we started walking west along Spain’s spectacular northern coastline.

The days were long and challenging:

  • Bilbao to Portugalete – 11 miles
  • Portugalete to Castro Urdiales – 21 miles
  • Castro Urdiales to Laredo – 19 miles
  • Rest day in Laredo
  • Laredo to Güemes – 17 miles
  • Güemes to Santander – 9 miles

The scenery was magnificent. We walked along rugged cliffs, beaches, fishing villages, and rolling green countryside. Laredo provided a welcome rest day where laundry and recovery became our primary activities. By the time we reached Santander, we had covered nearly 80 miles on foot.

After completing the walk, we returned by bus to Bilbao and spent one final night with Cristina before beginning the next phase of our trip.

Part Two: Valencia and Spanish Hospitality

On May 24 we flew from Bilbao to Valencia, where we were warmly welcomed by Toni and Celia and their family.

One of the highlights was a traditional Spanish paella lunch. Toni had wisely placed the order in advance because authentic paella takes nearly an hour to prepare properly. The meal was exceptional and provided an authentic taste of Valencia, the birthplace of paella.

Traditional Spanish paella with rabbit and chicken

The next day we spent exploring Valencia and enjoying time with our hosts. Beyond the beautiful architecture and Mediterranean atmosphere, the greatest pleasure was simply sharing meals and conversation with friends.

On May 26 we said goodbye to Spain and returned to the Netherlands.

Part Three: Wageningen and Family Connections

Back in Amsterdam, we retrieved additional clothing from Gerald’s house and boarded a train to Wageningen, where we had rented a short-stay apartment.

Wageningen holds special significance for Esther. It is home to Wageningen University, where she studied years ago. During our stay we rented bicycles, explored the town, and visited with friends including Franc, Annemieke, and William.

Not every day was packed with activity. One day was simply devoted to resting and recovering from the physical demands of the Camino. After walking nearly 80 miles in Spain, a slower pace was welcome.

A special highlight came when Esther attended a reunion of her university rowing club. She even had the opportunity to get back into a rowing shell and row on the Rhine River, revisiting memories from her student days.

Meanwhile, preparations were underway for the arrival of our American guests, Greta and Robin.

Part Four: Family Arrives and Touring the Netherlands

At the end of May, Greta and Robin arrived in Amsterdam. Robin’s mobility has become increasingly limited because of the progression of limb-girdle muscular dystrophy, so careful planning was required.

On June 1 we rented a car, picked up a wheelchair from Medipoint in Hoofddorp, and moved into a vacation rental in The Hague (Den Haag).

Over the next several days we explored a variety of Dutch landmarks.

One day we visited the visitor center of the International Criminal Court in The Hague. Although no court sessions were underway, the exhibits provided fascinating insights into international law and justice. Afterward we found ourselves huddled under a café awning during a steady Dutch rainstorm while enjoying lunch.

One of the highlights of our stay in The Hague was visiting Madurodam, a fascinating miniature city that showcases the Netherlands in remarkable detail. The park features hundreds of meticulously crafted scale models of famous Dutch landmarks, canals, airports, windmills, ports, and historic buildings. Walking through Madurodam felt like taking a journey across the entire country in just a few hours. Tiny trains moved through realistic landscapes, miniature ships sailed through harbors, and interactive exhibits demonstrated how the Dutch have mastered water management over the centuries. It was both entertaining and educational, providing an excellent overview of Dutch history, culture, and engineering achievements.

Another memorable stop was the Mauritshuis Museum in The Hague, one of the finest art museums in the Netherlands. Housed in a beautiful 17th-century mansion overlooking a picturesque pond, the museum contains masterpieces from the Dutch Golden Age. The collection includes works by renowned artists such as Johannes Vermeer, Rembrandt van Rijn, and Frans Hals. The museum’s most famous painting is Vermeer’s iconic “Girl with a Pearl Earring,” often referred to as the Dutch Mona Lisa. Unlike many large museums, the Mauritshuis offers an intimate setting where visitors can closely appreciate some of the world’s greatest works of art. For anyone interested in Dutch history, culture, or fine art, the Mauritshuis is an unforgettable experience.

Another day we drove to the Delta Works, the massive engineering project that protects much of the Netherlands from flooding. Seeing firsthand the scale of this system made it easy to understand why it is considered one of the modern engineering wonders of the world.

From there we continued to Rotterdam to see the famous Cube Houses. Unfortunately parking challenges and Robin’s mobility limitations prevented all of us from exploring, but Esther and Greta were able to visit while Robin and I remained nearby.

When our stay in The Hague ended, we stopped in Gouda for lunch and sightseeing before returning to Aalsmeer.

Part Five: Amsterdam, Family, and a Wedding Celebration

The final week of our trip centered around family and celebration.

June 5 was Emmy’s birthday. We drove into Amsterdam and parked near Museumplein so we could visit the Van Gogh Museum. Spending several hours immersed in Van Gogh’s work was a memorable experience. Afterwards we walked through the city, enjoyed lunch at a café, and visited the LEGO Store before wandering along Amsterdam’s canals.

That evening Esther’s nieces and nephews—Silvan, Bodin, Roan, and their partners—treated our group to dinner at a Japanese restaurant. Since they had been unable to attend our wedding reception, they wanted to celebrate with us while we were in the Netherlands.

The next day Esther and I enjoyed a quiet day of rest while also picking up our wedding rings. That evening we gathered the entire family, including Gerald, for dinner at Legends. The conversation was lively, with Esther serving as translator throughout the evening since Gerald speaks little English.

The highlight of the trip came on June 7 when we held our wedding reception in Aalsmeer. The event included a small reenactment of our ceremony and another exchange of rings. Held at a beautiful venue called On the Rock, the weather, food, service, and setting could not have been better. Sharing the day with Dutch family and friends made it truly special.

Our final full day included a visit to Royal FloraHolland, the world’s largest flower auction. Watching millions of flowers move through the enormous facility was fascinating and provided a glimpse into one of the Netherlands’ most important industries.

That evening we packed our bags one final time and prepared for the journey home.

Homeward Bound

On June 9 we drove to Schiphol Airport, returned our rental car, navigated check-in, security, passport control, and made it to our gate with about 45 minutes to spare.

FLORAL MARKETPLACE – CLICK IMAGE TO SEE BROCHURE WITH FACTS

CLICK TO SEE: All of the photos and videos from the FLORAL AUCTION HOUSE

After nearly a month abroad, we arrived back in Atlanta tired but grateful.

The trip included five distinct parts: the Camino del Norte, Valencia, Wageningen, touring the Netherlands with family, and our wedding celebration. Each segment could easily have been its own vacation.

The only downside was the constant cycle of packing, unpacking, repacking, and moving from place to place. We joked that we became experts at living out of suitcases.

Still, when we look back on the miles walked, the friends visited, the family gatherings, the Dutch cities explored, and the memories created, we would do it all again. It was a remarkable month filled with adventure, friendship, family, and celebration—a journey we will remember for the rest of our lives.

Gouda: More Than a Cheese

Mention the name Gouda and most people immediately think of cheese. While the city has certainly earned its worldwide reputation for producing one of the Netherlands’ most famous cheeses, visitors quickly discover that Gouda is much more than a dairy destination. This charming Dutch city is filled with history, beautiful architecture, canals, and a welcoming atmosphere that makes it one of the most enjoyable places to explore in the Netherlands.

Located in the province of South Holland, Gouda dates back to the 13th century and developed as an important trading center because of its strategic location along rivers and canals. The city’s wealth from trade is still evident today in its historic buildings and well-preserved old town.

The heart of Gouda is its magnificent Market Square, one of the largest and most beautiful town squares in the Netherlands. Dominating the square is the impressive Gothic Town Hall, built in the 15th century. Surrounded by outdoor cafés and historic buildings, the square is a wonderful place to sit, enjoy a cup of coffee, and watch the world go by.

Of course, no visit to Gouda would be complete without learning about its famous cheese. During the summer months, traditional cheese markets recreate the lively trading practices that made Gouda famous centuries ago. Farmers and merchants dressed in traditional clothing demonstrate how wheels of cheese were bought and sold, giving visitors a glimpse into Dutch commercial history. Yet even these markets tell a larger story about the city’s role as a center of trade and craftsmanship.

Beyond cheese, Gouda is known for another Dutch specialty—stroopwafels. These delicious thin waffle cookies filled with caramel syrup originated here in the late 18th century. Freshly made stroopwafels from a local bakery are a treat that rivals the city’s famous cheese.

One of Gouda’s most treasured landmarks is St. John’s Church, the longest church in the Netherlands. The church is renowned for its spectacular stained-glass windows, known as the Gouda Glasses, many of which date back to the 16th century. The colorful windows tell biblical and historical stories and are considered masterpieces of Dutch religious art.

The city’s network of canals and narrow streets invites leisurely exploration. Walking through Gouda feels like stepping back in time. Historic homes line the waterways, bicycles quietly pass by, and flower-filled bridges connect picturesque neighborhoods. Unlike Amsterdam’s bustling crowds, Gouda offers a more relaxed and authentic Dutch experience.

During our visit, we enjoyed wandering through the old town, exploring the market square, and having lunch in one of the city’s charming cafés. What impressed us most was how much history and character could be found in a relatively small city. Everywhere we turned there seemed to be another historic building, canal view, or hidden courtyard waiting to be discovered.

Camino del Norte – Part II

Day 3: Castro Urdiales to Laredo

Tuesday & Wednesday May 19 & 20

Another long day awaited us—approximately 19 miles from Castro Urdiales to Laredo. Fortunately, we all knew that the following day would be a rest day, which seemed to put a little extra energy in everyone’s step. It is amazing how much easier a difficult walk feels when you know a day off is waiting at the end of it.

The route took us through beautiful countryside and along stretches of the rugged Cantabrian coast. Unlike previous days, there were not many towns along the way where we could stop for a meal. By lunchtime, we were all ready for a break, so we found a grocery store and purchased a few supplies for a picnic lunch.

It turned out to be one of the most enjoyable meals of the trip. We found a shady spot beneath a grove of trees beside a fast-moving creek. Sitting there with our sandwiches, fruit, and cold drinks, listening to the rushing water and resting our tired feet, felt like a luxury. Sometimes the simplest meals become the most memorable.

The day grew increasingly hot as the afternoon wore on. The sun was relentless, and the miles seemed longer because of it. Several members of our group decided to take an alternate route that was both shorter and less strenuous. By the third day, everyone was beginning to understand their own limits and learning that there is no shame in choosing the option that allows you to continue enjoying the journey.

As the afternoon stretched on, the anticipation of reaching Laredo kept us moving. When the city finally came into view, it was a welcome sight. Situated along a beautiful bay with a long sandy beach, Laredo felt like a reward after three demanding days of walking.

We were especially pleased with our accommodations. The hotel was beautiful, and the staff could not have been more friendly or welcoming. After the frustrations of the previous night’s hotel, the warm reception was greatly appreciated.

Esther and I were among the first members of our group to arrive. We quickly checked in, enjoyed long showers, and then headed out to explore the town and find something to eat. Before long, we found a pleasant restaurant and settled in for dinner.

As we sat at our table, we began spotting familiar faces from our group making their way into town. One by one they arrived, and many joined us for dinner. It was fun to watch everyone’s arrival and hear stories from the day’s walk. Some had taken different routes, others had discovered hidden cafés or scenic overlooks, but everyone had their own adventure to share.

I did not fully appreciate how much I needed a rest day until the next morning. After three consecutive days of long-distance walking, my legs were tired, my feet were sore, and I was more exhausted than I realized.

Breakfast the next morning was served in the hotel’s grassy courtyard, where small tables were scattered beneath the open sky. It was a peaceful setting and a wonderful way to begin a day with no miles to walk.

One of our first missions was to find a laundromat. By then, our hiking clothes had accumulated several days’ worth of sweat, dust, and trail odors. Clean clothes had become one of life’s greatest luxuries. After getting our laundry washed and dried, the remainder of the day was delightfully uneventful.

We spent our time wandering through the city, enjoying leisurely meals, browsing shops, and taking more than a few naps. The slower pace gave our bodies a chance to recover and our minds a chance to absorb everything we had experienced so far. It was exactly the break we needed before setting out on the next stage of the Camino.

Day 5: Laredo to Güemes

After our much-needed rest day in Laredo, it was time to get moving again. Day 5 would be another long one—approximately 17 miles—and the weather forecast called for plenty of sunshine and heat.

Fortunately, our morning began at a relaxed pace. Unlike previous days, there was no need for an early start because the first part of our journey required a ferry crossing. We had only about a 1.5-kilometer walk from our hotel to the ferry terminal, and the ferry did not begin operating until 9:00 a.m. After several mornings of rushing to get on the trail, it felt wonderful to enjoy a leisurely breakfast and take our time getting ready.

When we arrived at the ferry landing, we found dozens of other Camino pilgrims already waiting. It was fun to see so many walkers from different countries gathered in one place, all heading toward the same destination. Backpacks lined the dock, walking poles leaned against benches, and conversations in several languages filled the air. We were fortunate to make it onto the first crossing, and before long we were gliding across the water toward Santoña.

Once on the other side, we resumed our journey through some of the most beautiful scenery we had encountered so far. The route alternated between peaceful countryside and dramatic stretches of coastline overlooking the Bay of Biscay. The ocean views were spectacular, with waves crashing against rocky cliffs and green hills rolling down toward the water.

Of course, the beauty came with a price. Several sections of the trail involved steep climbs and descents, particularly along the coast. The combination of heat, elevation, and accumulated fatigue from previous days made the walking more challenging than the mileage alone would suggest. By this point in the Camino, everyone had settled into their own rhythm and knew their physical limits. As on previous days, several members of our group chose alternate routes that were shorter and less demanding.

Official Camino yellow arrow

One of the things I appreciated most about the Camino was that there was never just one way to complete the journey. Each person could tailor the experience to their own abilities and goals. Whether you walked every mile of the official route or chose an easier option from time to time, everyone shared the same sense of accomplishment at the end of the day.

After many hours on the trail, we finally arrived in Güemes, a tiny rural village surrounded by green fields and rolling countryside. Compared to the larger towns and cities we had visited earlier in the week, Güemes felt quiet and peaceful. It was the kind of place where life seemed to move at a slower pace.

Our accommodations were excellent and provided a welcome opportunity to rest and recover. One unexpected advantage of staying in such a small town was that there was a restaurant large enough to accommodate our entire group of 14. Throughout the trip, coordinating meals for so many people had often been a challenge. This evening, however, we were all able to sit together at one table and enjoy dinner as a group.

The meal was filled with laughter, stories from the trail, and plenty of discussion about sore feet, aching muscles, and the adventures of the day. By now, the group had developed a comfortable camaraderie. We had spent hours walking together, encouraging one another through difficult stretches, and sharing both the challenges and rewards of the Camino.

As the evening came to a close, it was hard to believe that we were nearing the end of our journey. We were tired, sunburned, and more than a little sore, but we were also beginning to realize how special this experience had been. The miles, the conversations, the beautiful landscapes, and even the challenges were becoming memories that would stay with us long after we returned home.

Day 6: Güemes to Santander

Friday, May 22

Our final day on the Camino del Norte had arrived. The route from Güemes to Santander was approximately 15 miles, a distance that felt manageable compared to some of the longer days earlier in the week. There was a sense of excitement in the air as we set out that morning. While everyone was looking forward to reaching Santander, I think many of us were also a little sad that our Camino adventure was coming to an end.

The weather could not have been more beautiful. Much of the route followed the coastline, offering spectacular views of the Bay of Biscay. The trail alternated between sandy beaches, rocky shoreline, and paths overlooking the water. After several days of walking through cities, villages, farmland, and forests, it seemed fitting that our final day would be spent alongside the sea.

At one point, many of us couldn’t resist the temptation to take off our hiking shoes and walk barefoot along the beach. The cool water felt wonderful on our tired feet, and for a few moments we forgot about sore muscles, blisters, and the miles we had already covered. We simply enjoyed the sunshine, the sound of the waves, and the realization that we had nearly completed our journey.

As we walked, I found myself reflecting on the week. Just a few days earlier, we had started in Bilbao as a group of friends and acquaintances eager for an adventure. Since then, we had shared long days on the trail, steep climbs, aching feet, unexpected challenges, and countless conversations. The Camino has a way of stripping life down to its essentials—walk, eat, rest, and repeat. In that simplicity, friendships deepen and small pleasures become more meaningful.

We arrived in Santander fairly early in the afternoon. Reaching the city felt both satisfying and a little anticlimactic. After days of focusing on the next mile, the next hill, and the next destination, we had suddenly reached our goal.

Our hotel was another excellent one, providing a comfortable place to celebrate the completion of our walk. After checking in and cleaning up, we spent the afternoon exploring Santander. The city is elegant and lively, with beautiful waterfront views, parks, shops, and cafés. Several of us visited a museum, while others wandered through the city or simply relaxed after six days of walking.

As often happens at the end of a trip, our group gradually began to scatter. Everyone had different travel plans, departure times, and destinations. Some were heading directly home, while others planned to continue traveling through Spain. After spending nearly every day together for a week, it felt strange to say goodbye and go our separate ways.

Esther and I planned to return to Bilbao the following day. We caught a bus in the afternoon and spent one more night at Cristina’s family home before continuing on to Valencia. It was a fitting way to end this portion of our Spanish adventure, returning to the city where our Camino journey had begun.

Looking back, the Camino del Norte was far more than a long walk along Spain’s northern coast. It was a chance to slow down, disconnect from everyday routines, and experience a different rhythm of life. There were challenging days, sore feet, blistered toes, and moments when the miles seemed endless. But there were also stunning landscapes, wonderful food, new friendships, and a deep sense of accomplishment.

By the end of the week, we had walked nearly 100 miles together. More importantly, we had collected memories that will stay with us far longer than the physical aches and pains. The Camino taught us patience, perseverance, and the value of simply putting one foot in front of the other. And like so many pilgrims before us, we left already wondering when we might return.