Torino (Turin), Italy

September 19, 2025

Luggage for 3-1/2 months and big red is hiding

Day 1 – Friday, September 19, 2025
 Esther wakes up at 3:30AM, gets up and immediately starts to work on her talk she’s now giving at the conference in Turin. She got an email the morning before from the conference organizers asking if she would give a keynote talk to the group. She accepted and immediately started to prepare and gather the data she needed for her talk.
I get up around 4AM, make us coffee and continue getting the house ready and packing for being away for 3 months. She left the house 8:30 after a couple of cups of coffee for a 9AM lab meeting with her group.

The car window guys arrive to fix my broken back window and when they after they finish I leave the house to run some errands. I’m not sure how the window got broken but I noticed it broken about a week ago – my car insurance paid with no deductible ($670). On my errands I first dropped off some cold and pantry items, that I didn’t think would last for 3-1/2, with Celia and Toni Celia fed me lunch a Spanish potato omelet – very tasty. Esther and I met back at the house around noon, finished packing, loaded our luggage into the Prius and headed for Esther’s house where our driver to the airport was suppose to pick us up at 3PM.

When no driver showed up we got worried and Esther texted Devon who told us the driver was having tire trouble – great! We scrambled, loaded the Prius and Esther, Toni and I left for the airport and Toni drove the car back to Athens. Flight was unremarkable but, I was glad to have had my Bose noise canceling earphones because of several babies. After a cup of coffee at Schiphol airport we called Gerard(Esther’s dad) to come pick us up – he lives about 15 minutes away. After waiting on the curb for about 15 minutes Esther’s brother called saying Gerard had a flat tire – OH NO! Anyway Gerben Esther’s youngest brother picked us up. Weather was fine when we arrived about but it started to rain after lunch – just a drizzle. I went for a, 10 mile, bike ride, visited a bike shop and took a nice hot shower when I got home. We had dinner at home and I was in bed and a sleep by 9:30 – what a day!

Day 2 – Sunday, September 21, 2025
OMG – I slept straight through until 7:30AM, I can’t remember the last time I slept that soundly for so long – I feel great and the trip preparations and long travel day are over.
We spent a little time this morning planning our trip to Norwich and Grantham UK on October 15 – 19.

Day 3 – Monday, September 22
Up at 6AM to get ready to leave for the airport by 7:45 for our flight to Milan and then to catch a train to Turin where Esther’s conference was held. After we boarded the captain announced our flight would be delayed by 45 minutes because of birds and very bad weather in Milan.

By the time we got to Milan the weather was cloudy with a little rain drizzle but not too cold. We got off the plane and loaded into a very crowded shuttle bus waiting on the tarmac for a short trip to the terminal. The terminal was very crowded and we were looking for a certain bus to take us to the central train station for our 1-½ hour train trip to Turin. We couldn’t find the bus we need and decided to take a taxi but the line for getting a taxi was so incredibly long because of the workers strike we decided to scrap that idea. Getting frustrated with our limited options we talked to a woman who helped us figure what bus and tram we needed to take to get to the Central Station.

We didn’t buy our train tickets to Turin in advance because we weren’t sure how long it was going to take to get to the train station. The entrance to the station was very crowded with people trying to leave and enter at the same time so we really had to push hard to get inside and make our way to a train ticket kiosk. Our first kiosk wasn’t working properly so we worked our way to the other side of the station and found a kiosk that worked and got our tickets – the train was scheduled to leave in 15 minutes so we had to hurry to find the correct platform.

As we were looking at one of the departing train boards we were suddenly ushered onto the train platform area by some very serious security guards. There was a pro-Palestine and anti-Israel protest was going on outside which had apparently turned violet so the train station was shut down causing some trains to be diverted, delayed or canceled. Our train was diverted but we were able to get passage on later train. We finally arrived in Turin at about 6PM; tired, hungry and in desperate need of a drink.

Our VRBO in Turin was a straight 25 minute walk from the train station the weather was cool and dry – it felt good to be outside walking and close to our destination. We dropped off our things in our place and went off to look for some food – I had seen this restaurant called “Kipling’s Restaurant and Wine’ and it was a short walk away so we headed there. It was almost 7:30 when we sat down to eat. The evening air was cool and the sun was fading but we still wanted a table outside on the sidewalk. The food and service was very good. We started with beef tartar appetizer, then I had the seared tuna and Esther had the lamb – I had red wine and Esther had white. We made it back to our place took a shower then went and went straight to bed totally exhausted but feeling pretty good – we made it!

Day 4 – Tuesday September 23

There was some good talks which were presented on Monday and Esther had hoped to get in town early enough to catch some of them but events beyond our control prevented us getting to town earlier. Events at the conference started at 9:30 and Esther’s talk was scheduled for the morning session. I got up early 6AM to make her some coffee so she could put the finishing touches on her presentation. We showered and walked the 3.2km (25 minute walk) to the University of Turin, where the conference was held. On the way we passed this incredible open aire market where vendors were selling; fresh veggies, fruit, cheese, pasta, bread, fish, meat and just about anything else – on the way back I got some sliced meat, cheese, plums and apricots to have with our morning coffee – tasty.  

My 3-½ hour, TripAdvisor, guided bike tour started at 10AM so I slowly made my way to the location where we were to get our bike and start. There were 3 couples plus me on the tour the other couples hadn’t met and they were all Dutch. The tour was a lot of stop and go, the guide was very knowledgeable and did a great job. 

Image from the top of the tallest building in Torino (the Cinema Museum)

Did a little shopping in the afternoon and went to dinner with Esther and some of the colleagues from the conference. All of these colleagues knew each other so there was a lot story memories and since I hadn’t shared any of those memories or knew the people  I was glad Sean and Austin were there to talk to. 

Day 5 – Wednesday September 24

Walked Esther to the conference and then stopped by the open air market to get a few things for our place; plums, apricots, bread and cheese. Went to the Museo Nazionale del Cinema – located in the Mole Antonelliana and took the lift to the top – it’s the tallest building in Turin.

Had lunch at this very good Italian burger place and had a burger, fries and a beer – it was around 2PM and I was very hungry. The restaurant was good, very busy and I was able to sit outside – there was some bad weather moving in.. Esther got home around 4PM took a short nap then proceeded to do some work from our room – was nice having her close. 

One of the 5 courses we had from the Chef’s Table at pizza place in Turin, Italy

We took off for dinner around 7PM – most restaurants don’t open til 7 or 7:30 in Italy We went by a place we saw online which was close but didn’t like the overall vibe when we got there so we ditched it in hopes of finding something better. We walked along the river but all the restaurants there seemed to be just bars with bar food – not what we wanted. We headed back away from the river in search of a place to eat dinner. Mind you there are small little restaurants every 50 feet and down every street. Esther’s blood sugar started to drop so we had to find someplace quickly. We first stopped at Piola 1706 but they were booked solid and had no place for us, we then tried the place almost next door, Sestogusto Mazzini, a charming pizzeria with an innovative flare and innovative flare they had. Esther and I decided on the Chef Table which was a 5 course pizza tasting meal created by the chef especially for us and paired with wines of the chef’s choosing – I wish I had a print out of all the ingredients in each dish because they were all sensations for your taste buds. The first course presented was a brand new chef creation which had beef tartar, and pickled onions as a topping. Each course was described and presented by our server and included 1 or 2 slices of hand prepared wedges of pizza – we had plenty of food to bring home for breakfast.

I have a hard time calling this pizza – it’s nothing like anything I’ve ever had!

So much pride and joy goes into the pizza here in Italy – the special dough, sauces, toppings and of course the cheese I almost can’t call them pizzas – maybe I’ll start putting the word in quotes – “pizza”

Day 6 – Thursday September 25

We were able to sleep a little later than we have in the past few days. I made her some coffee while she did some work on her computer and we munched on some leftover “pizza” for breakfast I walked Esther to her conference then proceeded another mile down the road to the Auto Museo.I walked back to the room along the Po River which is the longest river in tally and acts like a “green lung” for the city and region – recreational and irrigation. Conference banquet tonight Banquet was a lot of fun – it started at 7:30 with wine and appetizers that were delivered to guest on trays. Most of the attendees congregated in small groups with conversations about their research or the politics of academic life, I found some interesting people to talk to; Franc from the seed industry, Sofian a researcher from the UK, who we are visiting in October along with several other folks.We walked the 3.6KM, about an hour, to the banquet but took the shuttle back – the shuttle made 2 stops; the first at the conference center and the second at the porta Nuou train station which was a 10 minute walk to our place – we got home at 12:30 AM.

Tallest building in Turin – I went on a lift to the very top and the view was spectacular.

Esther’s 60th Birthday Celebration Week

Day 1 – Sunday, September 7, 2025
Family arrives around 5:30 – simple meal of Lentil soup, salad and of course bread and cheese. It was a long travel day for everyone so not many photos

Gerard, Aunt Sonja(who has the birthday as Esther) and Emiel

Day 2 – Monday, September 8, 2025
Cookout at Esther’s House – Grilled chicken, potato fries, veggies and a salad. The weather was almost perfect for the whole week – cool in the mornings and evenings and upper 70’s in the afternoons.

Monday Lunch – Black bean enchilada casserole with chips
L-R: Sonja, Gerard, Esther, Emiel, Jan, Marielle, Menno and Maurice

Day 3 – Tuesday, September 9, 2025 (her actual birthday)
Dinner at Expat

Family field trip to Esther’s lab and greenhouse. Everyone was very impressed
Expat: Toni, Bruce, Esther, Jan, Sonja, Gerard, Marielle, Emiel, Maurice and Celia

We were seated upstairs, by ourselves, at the Expat which was good because Dutch people have a tendency to talk a bit loud. On our way in we say some friends and colleagues of Esther’s who were having a meeting in one of the downstairs rooms. A few minutes later the waiter came upstairs with 4 bottles of prosecco complements of the group downstairs – the family was blown away by generosity. After the Expat we went back to Esther’s for some birthday carrot cake – it was good. Menno loved it and had a piece everyday till it was gone.

Day 4 – Wednesday, September 10, 2025
Kayaking, Creature Comforts and food truck

Day 5 – Thursday, September 11, 2025
Bike, swim and barbeque at Bruce’s house – because the weather was a little chilly and my heart decided to go into A fib on Wednesday, we did not swim or bike. Attendees: Gerard, Menno, Maurice, Emiel. Sonja, Jan, Mariella, Toni, Celia, Austin, Shawn, Rhoda, Mark, Qian and Denise. After all of the lab members and out-of-towners left and it started getting darker I started the fire pit on the screened porch and the Toni, Celia and the family sat around the fire and talked – it was a lot of fun. The family left around 9ish – Toni, Celia and Esther spent the night.

Denise Tieman(FL), Qian Feng, Austin and Sean

Day 6 – Friday, September 12, 2025
Pizza party for family and out-of-town guests at Esther’s house. Esther and Toni drove into work together and had to be there for a 9AM lab meeting. I was about to cancel pizza night because of the Afib – I just didn’t have much energy. Celia stepped in and together we pulled it off. We first made a list of the ingredients we needed and went shopping at both Publix and Trader Joes for everything. After shopping we met the family and the Cedar Shoals building so they could see the train set. After the trains Celia and I went back to my house where she made us lunch and while I was resting afterwards she chopped up all of the veggies for the pizzas.

My pizza ‘DREAM TEAM’ Maurice, me. Celia and Toni (taking the photo)

There were a lot of folks who had just gotten into town who came to this event. We did the best we could to get enough seating and made 14 very yummy pizzas that had all kinds of different toppings one which was tuna fish, Toni’s favorite. Some people came in late because of transportation issues. Attendees: Toni, Celia, Gerard, Menno, Maurice, Sonja, Emiel, Marielle, Jan, Me, Esther, Denise Tieman, Austin, Qian, Lei, Nedda, Menoj, Namrata, Maohar(Texas), Yanbing (with husband, father and 2 kids), QI Mu (with husband and child). Sofia Visa and Mircea – total 26 plus 3 children.

Esther’s Lab Parties – 2025

We’ve had two parties for the people how work in Esther’s lab. The first, was in May, just a few days after we got back from the Netherlands. This party was to both congratulate the graduates and to say goodbye Yanbing Wang. Yanbing was leaving the lab to go work for Hudson-Alpha in Huntsville, Alabama – a job that Esther helped her get through her connections with the company.

The first party was held at Esther’s house and catered by Mama Ning’s out of Watkinsville

Esther’s lab staff and their families at Esther’s house – May 2025

Lab members: Yanbing, Lei, Qian, Lucas(intern from France), Tosin, Katherine, Nada, Lindsey, Manoj, Austin and some family members

Esther and Yanbing

Lake and pizza party – we had all of the lab people attend plus Toni, Celia, Aida, Paola and Raul. Everyone had a great time swimming, canoeing and building there own pizzas.

Part Three — Padua, Italy

Our final leg of this Italian trip was to the city of Padua just a very short, 30 minute, train trip from Venice. I could start seeing the transformation in Esther as we were making our way to the train station in Venice – from the tourist to the professional. Esther was starting to get ready for the conference and her talk.

As we made our way to get Esther’s conference badges and the opening remarks; I asked her if she knew anyone here and she replied no. She said, this was probably the only conference where she didn’t know anyone. We were both surprised as we were walking way and a voice, from behind, called out Dr. van der Knaap?, Dr. van der Knaap? Turned out to be a recent PhD graduate from Padua who had been following Esther’s work and was very happy to meet her in person – so cool and I was glad to have been there.
While Esther attended the conference I visited the Medical Museum, Botanical Gardens, The Basilica De Sant Antonio and several churches – so many beautiful images.

Padua is a city in Veneto, northern Italy and the capital of the province of Padua. The city lies on the banks of the river Bacchiglione, 25 miles west of Venice and 18 miles southeast of Vicenza. With a population of 207,694 and of 2025. Padua is home to one of the oldest universities in the world, the University of Padua, founded in 1222 and where figures such as Galileo Galilei and Nicolaus Copernicus taught or studied.

The University of Padua is an Italian public research university in Padua, Italy. It was founded in 1222 by a group of students and teachers from the University of Bologna, who previously settled in Vicenza; thus, it is the second-oldest university in Italy, as well as the world’s fifth-oldest surviving university.

The University of Padua was one of the most prominent universities in early modern Europe, known particularly for the rigor of its Aristotelian logic and science. Together with the University of Bologna, Padua had a central role in the Italian Renaissance, housing and educating a number of Italian Renaissance mathematicians, amongst them Nicolaus Copernicus.

As of 2021, it is made up of 32 departments and eight schools. Padua is part a network of historical research universities known as the Coimbra Group. In 2021, the university had approximately 72,000 students including undergraduates, postgraduates, and doctoral students.

Cappella del Tesoro o delle Reliquie 

The Chapel of Relics is a place of great historical and religious importance, located within the Basilica of Saint Anthony of Padua. The chapel, built towards the end of the 17th century, was designed by the architect and sculptor Filippo Parodi and features a vast collection of reliquaries, chalices, votives offerings, autographs of saints and other precious objects. Among the most significant relics are the incorrupt tongue of Saint Anthony, the chin of the Saint, the crystal cross, and the vocal apparatus of the saint. The chapel is a work of art that reflects the rich artistic and religious tradition of the Basilica of Saint Anthony of Padua.

The Orto Botanico di Padova is a botanical garden in Padua, in the northeastern part of Italy. Founded in June 1545 by the Venetian Republic, it is the world’s oldest academic botanical garden that is still in its original location.  It was devoted to the growth of medicinal plants, the so-called “simple plants”  simples were herbs that were used as they are rather than in admixtures) which produced natural remedies, and also to help students distinguish genuine medicinal plants from false ones.  The garden – operated by the University of Padua and owned by the Italian government – encompasses roughly 22,000 square meters (240,000 sq ft), and is known for its special collections and historical design.

Perhaps my favorite thing in Padua was visiting the Giotto fresco cycle in the Scrovegni Chapel, Padua Italy. The Scrovegni Chapel Italian Cappella degli Scrovegni is a small church, in Padua, region of Veneto, Italy. The chapel and monastery are now part of the complex of the Museo Civico of Padua. The chapel contains a fresco cycle by Giotto, completed about 1305 and considered to be an important masterpiece of Western art.

I was glad to have been able to visit the Museum of the History of Medicine in Padua occupies a section of what was the Hospital of San Francesco Grande , the first and most important hospital in Padua for four centuries, founded in 1414 and in use until 1798. The structure was part of the fifteenth-century complex of San Francesco Grande, separated from the convent of the Friars Minor by the church of San Francesco Grande .

It was incredible to see how doctors, scholars, and researchers learned about the anatomy of the human body in the 13th century and also how quickly medicine evolved.

We ended our stay in Padua with a fabulous 4 course dinner provide by the host of the conference.

PART TWO – Venice, Italy

Venice – the capital of northern Italy’s Veneto region, is built on more than 100 small islands in a lagoon in the Adriatic Sea. It has no roads, just canals – including the Grand Canal thoroughfare – lined with Renaissance and Gothic palaces. The central square, Piazza San Marco, contains St. Mark’s Basilica, which is tiled with Byzantine mosaics, and the Campanile bell tower offering views of the city’s red roofs.

We took the train from Trieste to Venice where we had booked a VRBO right in the center of town. We decided to walk the 20 minute distance from the train to station to main square near our room where our host agreed to meet us to help us navigate the maze of streets and allies to our room. The walk was fairly easy but we had about bridges to cross on the way and with Esther’s 40 pound suit case it was a workout.

On our first and only full day in Venice we took the ferry out to Burano an island in the Venetian Lagoon, northern Italy, near Torcello at the northern end of the lagoon, known for its lace work and brightly colored homes. The primary economy is tourism and the current population of Burano is about 2,800

On our way to a museum we noticed a special Vivaldi concert at an old church that had been converted into a music venue. The museum was closing when we got there so we decided to check out the concert. They were performing Vivaldi’s concerti The Four Seasons – which is a group of four violin concerti each of which gives musical expression to a season of the year. These were composed around 1718-1723, when Vivaldi was the court chapel master in Mantua. They were published in 1745 in Amsterdam in what was at the time the Dutch Republic. Antonio Lucio Vivaldi was born on 4 March 1678 in Venice, then the capital of the Republic of Venice. GREAT CONCERT!

The famous Rialto Bridge, Venice Italy

Venice was amazing and I’m really glad I got to see it in person – but it was hot and crowded so I think the day and a half we were there was enough. I’m now ready for our third and final destination of this trip – Padua. Especially since Jeff Bezos is coming into Venice for his wedding in a day or two – glad we missed that.